Concert Review: Sleep

Sleep lays down the groove.

Sleep

Thalia Hall, Chicago

Jan. 27, 2016

Sleep--the seminal stoner/doom metal band--hasn’t recorded a new album since the late-1990s. As legend has it, the band’s most visionary effort was twice rejected by the record label because they turned in one epic, 63-minute song (“Dopesmoker”) as the album. The Bay Area group soon disbanded, and, even though the song was released in all its glory in 2003, the group hasn’t released any significant music since.

They have rejoined for sporadic touring since 2012, and perhaps haven’t fully formed as a band due to guitarist Matt Pike’s success fronting the three-piece metal outfit High On Fire, releasing a series of albums that have made a heavy impact on the genre and cemented Pike’s status as one of the most riveting figures in metal.

Still, Sleep’s legend was enough to sell out two nights in a row (Jan. 26 and 27, 2016) at Thalia Hall, which might be one of the best places in Chicago to see live music (more about that below). It was a transcendent night of music and undeniable proof of the band’s genius, influence and ahead-of-its-time quality.

The band played “Aquarian,” “Dragonaut” and the title track all from 1992’s “Holy Mountain,” Sleep’s best full album of material.

But the highlight of the set, of course, was “Dopesmoker,” at least the first 25 minutes of it that the band played. Singer-bassist Al Cisneros doesn’t begin his monk-like chanting vocals until eight minutes in, allowing the three-piece to firmly establish its mid-tempo groove. Pike wrings the most out of each power chord, letting each ring out like a distorted, mystical gong. Drummer Jason Roeder (also of Neurosis) keeps a steady beat, heavy on the cymbals, for seemingly days. Pike, as usual, stood stoically bare-chested in front of his stack of Orange amps, focused solely on wielding his axe.

The band wasn’t overly heavy, nowhere near aggressive, just pleasantly rhythmic and even hypnotic. There were zero showy guitar solos and absolutely no rock posturing. The overall effect, however, was a collective weight, a slow crushing that descended on the audience like an aural sedative.

The historic building that houses Thalia Hall also houses
Dusek's Board & Beer and The Punch House.

The Venue

Newly renovated rock concert venue Thalia Hall, at 1807 S. Allport St. in the Pilsen neighborhood of Chicago, is magnificent. It first opened in 1892 as an opera house, and is now a three-dimensional complex of bars and restaurants, all under one roof. The architectural landmark has an inviting and comfortable personality.

At one end, Dusek’s Board & Beer restaurant is a fine spot for food and a wide range of craft beers, including new neighborhood brewer Moody Tongue. Downstairs is the Punch House--decorated as if it’s a suburban home basement bar, circa 1975, with wood paneling and taxidermied fish. An impressive saltwater fish tank serves as the bar’s centerpiece. This hipster hideaway specializes in cocktails both classic and innovative, and still more bites to eat. Punch is sold by the glass, carafe or actual punch bowl, and a faux-wall bookcase serves as a speakeasy-like door (if you move the correct period-piece tchotchke) into a wine cellar and large room, ostensibly for party rental.

The sleekly renovated concert hall is located upstairs. A main floor features standing room akin to the space of Metro. Paying a few more bucks allows a customer access to the balcony seating area with good views all around. A high ceiling makes for an airy space. The sound there is clear and well mixed, and modern temperature controls help make it a comfortable space, something sorely missing in grungier places that usually host such bands (like the Riviera, Metro, Congress...you name it). The hall allows in-and-out privileges, perfect for those who want to sneak down to the Punch House or Dusek’s bar before the headliner takes the stage. It feels like home.

Comparing two 'New' breweries: Belgium and Glarus

This summer my family and I embarked on a 5,000+ mile road trip from Chicago to Oregon and back, camping for 11 of the 21 days we were gone. We hit a few breweries, including Lucky Labrador and Mash Tun in Portland, and Crux and Deschutes in Bend.

They are all worthy of their own blog posts, but there’s an interesting contrast between New Belgium Brewery, which I visited on the way back to the Midwest, and New Glarus Brewery, which I visited as part of a subsequent overnight camping trip this summer, mostly because I was jonesing for more camping after being home from the road for a few days.

Craft brewer New Belgium has inspired many breweries to come in its wake and aspires to be one of the biggest in the U.S., while maintaining employee ownership. New Glarus, however, is content being an exclusive Wisconsin brewery (also employee-owned) with zero ambition to expand beyond cheeseland borders.

Here’s my take on both:

Fat Tire art in the brewery

NEW BELGIUM, Fort Collins, Colorado.

One has to make reservations months in advance to go on the brewery’s free, 90-minute tasting tour. We missed the opportunity, but arrived at the brewery at 11:30 on July 19 hoping for the best. We sweet-talked the tour guide to put us on the waiting list for the noon tour, in case someone didn’t show. Sure enough, my wife, Jill, two kids (10 and 8) and I got in due to no-shows and thoroughly enjoyed the tour through the grounds and buildings, canning and bottling lines included--we saw it all. The female tour guide was simply delightful. The brewery’s most recent acquisition: dozens of wooden barrels in which to age sour beers.

Along the way, we tasted four beers: Eric’s Ale Peach Sour (very good, and priced around $18 for a 22 oz), Cocoa Mole, Shift Pale Ale and Tripple. After the tour, we sat outside in the renovated AirStream trailer, played the rolle bolle game and munched on sausages from the food truck parked in front. In all, New Belgium projects a family (and employee) friendly vibe, and encourages patrons not to tip the bartenders. Instead, they suggest, buy another round to support the company overall.

We could’ve spent all afternoon there, but other nearby attractions--including a swim in the Horsetooth Reservoir--took us away.

Gorgeous summer day in Wisconsin.

NEW GLARUS, New Glarus, Wisconsin.

Jill and I got a chance to camp one night sans kids later in August, so we headed to New Glarus Woods State Park south of Madison, which also happens to be an uphill bike ride away from the brewery. The park and campground is woody and small (and we encountered brazen raccoons at night), but the location couldn’t be beat.

New Glarus is idyllic and eccentric: the brewery is open from 10 to 4 p.m. only, patrons must purchase a souvenir glass for their tastings, and there is no food available. The first beverage purchase also includes a coupon for a free small beer at participating taverns and restaurants in the nearby, Swiss-inspired town of New Glarus. The subtle message is: eat dinner in town and support the community as a whole.

Aside from those details about the brewery’s quirks, the grounds are stunning: brewery buildings were designed to resemble barns and ruined rock walls with seating areas are scattered among the hillside’s boulders. A bavarian aesthetic is made complete with a beer garden and views of the surrounding hills and dairy farms.

Four of the brewery’s classic beers were offered on tap in the tasting room (including Moon Man IPA, one of my favorites--I don’t particularly care for Spotted Cow), but as Illinoisans who can’t get the beer except for north of the cheddar curtain, it was still a treat.

The self-guided tour is actually fascinating. Visitors can wander through the inner workings, brushing shoulders with production employees. While we were there, we stood 10 feet away and watched a half-dozen employees struggle to fix a problem with the bottle-filling machine.

The package beer in their store is priced higher than at the gas station down the street, furthering the idea that the brewery doesn’t want to undercut the local businessman selling their product. You have to respect that, but would be a fool to buy it at the brewery.

At 4, we biked down the hill and into town. We redeemed our free beer coupon at one of the taverns and dined on bar food, relishing the small town, slow-paced feel. The camping may not be much, but the brewery and town more than make up for it.

Restaurant Review: Kuma's Corner moves to 'burbs, still head-bangs

Kuma’s Corner has opened a new location in the western suburbs, a move that coincides with the 10th anniversary of the original dive-bar location (2900 W. Belmont Ave., Chicago) that built its legend on big, messy burgers, fully tatted employees and loud heavy metal music.

National name recognition came by sparring with local Catholics who were offended by its seasonal Ghost BC burger offering (all burgers are named after metal bands), topped with a communion wine reduction sauce and a communion wafer.

But the new Schaumburg location (1570 E. Golf Road) has made, ironically, a quiet debut by nestling in a strip mall just north of Woodfield Mall, with suburban staples such as Trader Joe’s, Old Navy and Five Below nearby.

The menu is roughly the same as the city version, as is the ambiance: a number of classic Black Sabbath songs--with accompanying videos playing on a projection screen--blasted from the speakers as I visited recently, only to be followed by a sequence of more contemporary stoner rock Clutch songs, videos also included. The volume makes comprehensible conversations just challenging enough, and the servers on average are slightly less tatted than the ones at the city location.

Rock posters line the walls, the best ones, in my opinion, being the Mastodon graphic that greets visitors with open arms, and the Melvins skull (with singer King Buzzo’s Sideshow Bob hair) in the main dining room.

Although I was tempted by the BBQ Pork Fries appetizer ($13), I skipped it because I knew I would be done in alone by trying to finish a 10-ounce burger stacked with toppings. Having ordered the Mastodon (bacon, BBQ sauce, cheddar, frizzled onions) years before at the original location, I opted for the YOB ($14, roasted garlic mayo, bacon, smoked Gouda, roasted red pepper) over the Led Zeppelin (bacon, pulled pork, cheddar, pickles).

The burger was a solid brick of meat and toppings held together well by a pretzel roll. The sweet roasted flavor of the pepper really defined this option. The Gouda served less as an additional flavor and more as a cheesy, blanket binder. The burger offered a good beef flavor, even though it was a bit rare for my “medium” choice of cooking. Overall it was very satisfying. House-made chips or fries come as sides, and amped-up versions of mac-n-cheese are also available. Five-ounce burger options are appropriately named after lightweight metal bands, such as Skid Row ($8, bacon, blue cheese and mushrooms).

The small room/bar and outside seating area was full by 12:15 on a weekday, but the servers hit all the right notes, frequently checking on me and my companion. This kind of prompt service is vital in the ‘burbs, as a number of businessmen were there for a quick lunch, with at least one wisely taking off his tie before his food arrived. A mixture of clientele, including parents with kids in strollers, filled out the rest of the seats.

A fine beer menu, on tap and in bottles, is a must with both burgers and metal. Kuma’s delivers here as well, even including some up-and-coming local craft brews such as One Trick Pony and Noon Whistle. Be prepared to pay a premium, however, as a bottle of Stone Delicious IPA cost me $7.

Metal, burgers and the ‘burbs: a marketing concept whose time has come.

Three craft beer spots reviewed: A Tour of Kalamazoo's Finest

Bells' Brewery, Kalamazoo, Mich., February 2015

I spent the last weekend in February 2015 in Kalamazoo, Michigan, experiencing firsthand why some consider it a craft-beer destination town. A beer tour wasn’t the original reason for the trip, just a pleasant side excursion while accompanying Jill on her business trip (with our 9 and 7 year olds in tow).

First we hit Bell’s Brewery and Eccentric Cafe, among a cluster of mustard colored brick buildings comprising the campus of the revered Midwestern institution, located in the heart of downtown Kalamazoo.

The cafe itself is a comfortable tasting room with counter-service food. A chalkboard with dozens of taps--mainstays as well as small batch brews--hangs on one brick wall, with stained glass featuring outdoor scenes and pop art decorating other walls.  Food and drink orders are taken at the bar, so a line quickly forms. We got a seat at a four-top, and my daughter enjoyed a blackberry Izze soda.

Jill and I shared a flight of tasters of the following:

-Kalamazoo IPA 6%: excellent, and we got a growler of it later.

-Hopslam Double IPA 10%: Very good.

-Roundhouse Imperial Red Ale 7.5%: Very good.

-Mead 8.6%: tasted like a crisp white wine.

-Red Nose ESB 6%: Jill liked it very much.

-Dagger Stout 11.2%: Intense.

For food, we ordered Pulled Pork Tacos to split, and both kids got the grilled cheese. The tacos were build-your-own, with a platter of tender smoked pork and pineapple salsa. There were many other enticing options on the menu (see below).

A second multi-purpose room hosts special events, including a world music festival the weekend we were there, and the outdoor patio--frozen in February--would undoubtedly be a summer hot-spot.

An adjacent building houses the Bell’s brand merch shop, with all the expected T-shirts, hats, stickers, and so forth. That’s where customers can get high-quality growlers with a Grolsch-style cap. Drawback: there are only a couple options for growler fills (we chose Kalamazoo IPA). An extensive home brew supply section rounds out the shop.

One more bit of advice: if you want Oberon, come during the summer.

The beer board at Bell's

The grub at Bell's, side one

The grub at Bell's, side two

I went solo to visit Arcadia Ales Brewery, on the outskirts of town on riverfront property. It boasts a sleek, modern stainless steel look with more natural lighting. Seating is more spread out, and frisbee golf goals dot the dining room (perhaps they are taken outside after winter?).

Food is ordered and paid for at a deli-style counter, separate from the bar. Smoked meats are a specialty here, with an array of sides and other dishes, including kimchi tacos. I thoroughly enjoyed the smoked beef brisket sandwich: it was tender, meaty and had a great smoke flavor.

I ordered a flight of the following tasters:

-ESB: very good

-IPA: solid

-Angler’s Pale Ale: very good

-Porter: OK

-Rapunzel: good

The merch section is in a small corner by the front door, and I didn’t see growlers as an option. A cooler offers six packs of the mainstays, with the option of creating your own variety six-pack, which I elected to do.

The third brewery we hit (the second as a family) was the least impressive of the three, although I would go back to try their food and give their beer another shot. We didn’t order, but the menu looked to be the most extensive, and a full dining room’s gotta mean something good is happening in the kitchen. Gonzo’s BiggDogg Brewery is also the newest, established in the heart of downtown Kalamazoo in 2013, just blocks from Bell’s.

Jill and I split a flight of the following:

-Chords of Winter Wheat Ale 6%

-Dogg Days Ale 5.8%

-Remember the Earl ESB 5.6% (Jill discovered she likes ESBs on this trip)

-Cloak of Darkness Black IPA 8%

Bottom line: We saw at least three other breweries that we didn’t have time to visit. Bell’s may have the most name recognition--and may be the best--but there is more to discover in Kalamazoo.

Gonzo's BiggDogg

Big Daddy's BBQ reviewed

Restaurant recommendation: Big Daddy's BBQ in Gary, IN
http://www.bigdaddysbarbque.com/

I finally had a chance to stop and eat here today (Sunday, March 9). It's about 2.5 miles off I-80, and worth a stop for dine in or carry out. We got there right around noon, so the strip mall lot was full of cars for the flea market and next door car-dealership-turned-mega church.
I ordered the Sunday soul food special: one meat, three sides, a drink (a can of red soda), peach cobbler and cornbread. I got the 1/2 chicken BBQ, dressing, collard greens, black eyed peas, an extra order of mac and cheese, and side order of jerk chicken wings (which also came with fries). It only came to about $20, and it fed two adults and two kids.
I had to wait about 10-15 minutes to order and get the food, but it was worth it.
The BBQ sauce on the chicken was outstanding--really sweet and included pineapple chunks. The jerk chicken was mild, with a slight sweet flavor and lots of cinnamon. The mac and cheese was rich, the greens were salty and only slightly bitter; the peas were fine, as was the corn bread. The dressing was the best side. Although a bit salty, it contained large pieces of white-meat turkey. It was Thanskgiving-dinner worthy.
The cobbler was solid, but small in size. The crust was a little soggy and the cinnamon was prominent. 
Most of the people there were getting carry-out. Big Daddy himself was there. He walked out from the kitchen and out the front door, apparently on his way to church next door.