Kuma’s Corner has opened a new location in the western suburbs, a move that coincides with the 10th anniversary of the original dive-bar location (2900 W. Belmont Ave., Chicago) that built its legend on big, messy burgers, fully tatted employees and loud heavy metal music.
National name recognition came by sparring with local Catholics who were offended by its seasonal Ghost BC burger offering (all burgers are named after metal bands), topped with a communion wine reduction sauce and a communion wafer.
But the new Schaumburg location (1570 E. Golf Road) has made, ironically, a quiet debut by nestling in a strip mall just north of Woodfield Mall, with suburban staples such as Trader Joe’s, Old Navy and Five Below nearby.
The menu is roughly the same as the city version, as is the ambiance: a number of classic Black Sabbath songs--with accompanying videos playing on a projection screen--blasted from the speakers as I visited recently, only to be followed by a sequence of more contemporary stoner rock Clutch songs, videos also included. The volume makes comprehensible conversations just challenging enough, and the servers on average are slightly less tatted than the ones at the city location.
Rock posters line the walls, the best ones, in my opinion, being the Mastodon graphic that greets visitors with open arms, and the Melvins skull (with singer King Buzzo’s Sideshow Bob hair) in the main dining room.
Although I was tempted by the BBQ Pork Fries appetizer ($13), I skipped it because I knew I would be done in alone by trying to finish a 10-ounce burger stacked with toppings. Having ordered the Mastodon (bacon, BBQ sauce, cheddar, frizzled onions) years before at the original location, I opted for the YOB ($14, roasted garlic mayo, bacon, smoked Gouda, roasted red pepper) over the Led Zeppelin (bacon, pulled pork, cheddar, pickles).
The burger was a solid brick of meat and toppings held together well by a pretzel roll. The sweet roasted flavor of the pepper really defined this option. The Gouda served less as an additional flavor and more as a cheesy, blanket binder. The burger offered a good beef flavor, even though it was a bit rare for my “medium” choice of cooking. Overall it was very satisfying. House-made chips or fries come as sides, and amped-up versions of mac-n-cheese are also available. Five-ounce burger options are appropriately named after lightweight metal bands, such as Skid Row ($8, bacon, blue cheese and mushrooms).
The small room/bar and outside seating area was full by 12:15 on a weekday, but the servers hit all the right notes, frequently checking on me and my companion. This kind of prompt service is vital in the ‘burbs, as a number of businessmen were there for a quick lunch, with at least one wisely taking off his tie before his food arrived. A mixture of clientele, including parents with kids in strollers, filled out the rest of the seats.
A fine beer menu, on tap and in bottles, is a must with both burgers and metal. Kuma’s delivers here as well, even including some up-and-coming local craft brews such as One Trick Pony and Noon Whistle. Be prepared to pay a premium, however, as a bottle of Stone Delicious IPA cost me $7.
Metal, burgers and the ‘burbs: a marketing concept whose time has come.
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